While forging a New Year’s Eve dinner around toshikoshi soba, handmade Japanese buckwheat noodles said to bring good-luck if eaten on New Years, I went on the hunt for a great sesame oil to dress a salad of watercress and other peppery greens. I’d been disillusioned by sesame oils for some time, finding most that I tried with a harsh, over-toasted flavor, or bordering on rancidity (a problem with volatile nut and seed oils).

Having enjoyed La Tourganelle’s roasted walnut, hazelnut and peanut oils (I interviewed the owners of the company many years ago and was impressed by their passion), I ordered their Toasted Sesame Oil. I was THRILLED at its roasty-yet-delicate, true sesame flavor. I’ve been using it on all sorts of foods since, including a drizzle on oatmeal this morning that was stellar.

In love with David Chang’s Good-On-Anything Ginger Scallion Sauce, I’ve been using Tourganelle’s to make down-and-dirty, recipe-less versions to throw in soups, on noodles and in rice. Although Chang might think the addition barbaric, I find the sesame oil just what his almost perfect condiment needed.

You can buy La Tourganelle’s oils here, and the sesame oil here.

Note: Be sure to refrigerate the oil after opening.

Recipe: Freeform, A La Minute Play on David Chang’s Ginger Scallion Sauce

David Chang’s original recipe makes a massive, time-consuming amount. I took the gist and translated it to a basic formula I can make with whatever amounts I want or have time for. Figure about 4:1 scallions to ginger, and play the rest by ear.

Thinly sliced scallion, green and white

Finely minced peeled fresh ginger

Light soy sauce or shoyu

Toasted Sesame Oil

Kosher salt

Sherry vinegar

Combine 4 parts scallions to 1 part ginger in a small bowl or jar. Drizzle in soy sauce, sesame oil and salt to taste; add a few drops of vinegar to lift the flavors. Let sit 15 minutes before using. Cover and refrigerate indefinitely