Although many people know Alice B. Toklas Cookbook for its infamous hashish fudge, as a young cook I found the book to be a treasure. Wonderfully written, with evocative detail about Alice B. Toklas’ and Gertrude Stein’s culinary life in France during World War II, I loved reading about a real cook’s experience and found a number of truly great recipes in it. Somehow I missed the recipe for asparagus dressed with salted and peppered whipped cream until I read an adaptation at Food 52. They adapted it from Greene on Greens by Bert Greene. Now I’ve adapted it further.
I also went to the source, sure that the way it was written would be way more compelling than Food 52’s recipe (at bottom). Madame Loubet’s Asparagus Tips definitely is: “a gastronomic feast. And a thing of beauty.”
My own approach is a hybrid of the two recipes that uses slightly less butter and cream. The basic gist is so simple that reading through the recipes will inspire your own approach.
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Sally’s Hybrid Alice B. Toklas Asparagus in Salt and Pepper Whipped Cream
Up to 1 hour before cooking the asparagus whip about 1/2 cup of heavy cream to soft peaks, beating in 1/2 teaspoon salt and about 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper. Leave uncovered it in the fridge until ready to use.
Steam about 2 pounds trimmed, peeled asparagus in a small amount of water in a big skillet. When they are crisp tender, drain the residual water, return the asparagus to the pan and add 2 to 3 tablespoons each of butter and cream. Roll the asparagus around in the mixture, then transfer them to a heated platter. Spoon the whipped cream over the asparagus and serve immediately. Sublime.
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Alice B. Toklas’ Asparagus in Salt & Pepper Whipped Cream from Food 52 via Greene on Greens
Serves 4
About 2 pounds asparagus, trimmed and peeled
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 250º F. Cook the asparagus in boiling, salted water, or steam, until just tender. Place the drained asparagus in a shallow serving dish, and keep it warm in the oven. (Asparagus may be blanched ahead of time and reheated in a warm oven, if desired.)
In a small saucepan, heat the butter with 1/4 cup heavy cream over low heat. Stir and pour over the asparagus; return the asparagus to the oven.
Beat the remaining 3/4 cup cream with the salt and pepper until soft peaks form. Spoon over the hot asparagus. Serve immediately.