When I was a young cook, Roger Vergé, who died last week at age of 85, was one of a handful of chefs who changed the way I thought about food, pioneering the innovative style that became known as “nouvelle cuisine”. He taught me his simple, delicious sauce for grilled or roasted fish that I have relied on over the many years since.
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Every since we saw the video Andrew Carmellini, mastermind of the great Locanda Verde, made to build buzz in his soon-to-open NYC restaurant, Dutch, we’ve been FEELING the restaurant as it comes together in the crazed couple of weeks before opening. Maybe that’s because Sally actually worked nearby at the old Soho Charcuterie on Sullivan…
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