When I am stressed or blue or just plain tired, I turn to the smallish jar I keep in my fridge of ginger scallion …sauce…condiment…elixir…potion… whose roots lie with Uber Chef David Chang. I’m not sure what to call it. It’s a wet hash, really, of thinly sliced ginger and scallions mellowed by roasted sesame oil and soy sauce. Well, my version is anyway.
I’ll boil up some rice or noodles and mix in dollops of the stuff to taste, sometimes along with an egg. That is dinner: deeply sustaining and comforting. (It’s also great alongside just about any meat or fish…)
I started taking liberties with Chang’s recipe after I made it the first time and fell in the love with the idea and effect but not with the time-consuming slicing of scallions, nor the exact balance of flavors.
As I do with many recipes, I took the gist and translated it into a basic formula I can make with whatever amounts I want or have time for. My freeform formula and Chang’s original recipe are below: a good example of the deconstruction/personalization of a recipe.
As Chang says:
If you have ginger scallion sauce in the fridge, you will never go hungry
Freeform, A La Minute Ginger Scallion Sauce
Figure about 4 to 1 scallions to ginger, and play the rest by ear.
Chopping the scallions in a food processor gives a too-sharp, somewhat acrid flavor. Best to slice them by hand really thinly or using a Benriner mandoline.
Thinly sliced scallion, green and white
Finely minced peeled fresh ginger
Light soy sauce or shoyu
Roasted Sesame Oil
Combine 4 parts scallions to 1 part ginger in a small bowl or jar. Drizzle in soy sauce, sesame oil and salt to taste; add a few drops of vinegar to lift the flavors. Let sit 15 minutes before using. Cover and refrigerate. In my experience, it lasts several weeks.