food + cooking

Magic Trick: Divine Ice Cream Made In a Plastic Bag

At a dinner party New Yorker food critic Hannah Goldfield attended last summer, one of the hosts served ice cream that had the mind-blowing effect of a magic trick. Here’s how, with a recipe.

Key Lime or Lemon Hand Pies for Desperate Times

Wondering how could I quickly create the effect of great key lime (or lemon) pie without actually making a whole pie, I devised this delectable stripped-down hand pie, made of a few readily-available ingredients. Fast comfort for desperate times.

Roasted Lemons: 3 Ingredients Yield Mighty Dazzle

As my cooking gets simpler and simpler, I rely on easily-created hits of flavor to dazzle. A favorite of late is roasted lemons, which I often throw into the oven as I’m making the rest of the meal. They liven up ANYTHING. They are totally addictive.

Wines to Drink with Junk Food from Chitos to Pork Rinds (Anthony Giglio)

Wine writer Anthony Giglio was the first to really consider what wines to drink with the junk food so many secretly love. So we compiled a list of “the best of” his solid pairings, and the illuminating thinking behind them.

Alice B. Toklas’ Asparagus in Salt & Pepper Whipped Cream “A Thing of Beauty”

In her famous cookbook, Alice B.Toklas called Madame Loubet’s Asparagus Tips “a gastronomic feast. And a thing of beauty.” They are. Here’s how to make them.

Cracked Coriander is the New Pepper

For years I’ve kept a small tin of toasted cracked coriander seeds in my spice drawer to use as an emergency flavor enhancer. Its slightly lemony-orangy-herbal flavor and pleasing crackle provides the perfect little alt-note on all sorts of unexpected foods.

Mallomar, the Seasonal, Interactive, Pop Culture Cookie

Available only in winter months when it’s real chocolate coating won’t melt, Mallomars are a deeply satisfying seasonal cookie that inspires very personal improvisation…(and has MANY cultural references to boot).

Miracle of Transformation: An Easy Way to LactoFerment Foods at Home

Having tried and failed with my own lacto-fermentation rig, I found a tool and two books that made for satisfying success in my fermentation experiments.

Secrets of a Divine Egg Salad Sandwich from Harlem’s Premiere Caterer

Although I cooked professionally for decades, I somehow never got how great an egg salad sandwich could be I tasted Amuse Bouche’s AND learned their secrets…

An Astonishing Poem of Instructions for Eating Persimmons and of Course, Way More

‘Persimmons’ tells a number of tiny stories, and lovely, very precise instruction about chosing and eating persimmons, which are in season now. It is one of the most remarkable poems I’ve read.

Foolproof Slow-Roasted Salmon: a Food 52 Genius Recipe + 5-Ingredient and Under Wonder

My go-to strategy for salmon, to make or to teach, is to slow-roast it accompanied by a simple sauce that I can make ahead. I’m thriled that Food52 considers it Genius…

Ode to Tomatoes, for the Last Days of Summer (Neruda with Recipes)

Every September, aware that the last moments of perfect summer tomatoes are imminent, I prepare them these simple ways in of advance winter, and remember Neruda’s lovely ode.

A Sicilian Cook’s Perfect Tomato Salad

The most perfect tomato salad I’ve ever had was made by wine writer Anthony Giglio following the formula of Lucia Lo Presti, his Sicilian mama-on-law. Here’s her formula.

A Guide to Eating As Many Flowers as Possible

“One of my life’s quests has been to eat as many flowers as possible” wrote Dina Falconi in her wonderful book. Then she showed us how…

What to Eat When Hiking Naked and Other Essential Info

While reviewing Greenbelly Meal Bars, I also found a trove of useful information about navigating the outdoors with pleasure and ease. Even naked.

Learn The Secrets of Great Fried Chicken from The Fried Chicken King of Harlem

In this 3-minute video, Harlem fried chicken legend Charles Gabriel shares the secrets to perfect, REAL fried chicken.

The Metaphysics of Mayo + Fast, Delish Ways to Transform Storebought

Poet, critic and theorist Fred Moten’s insights into the true nature of mayonnaise got me thinking about my favorite ways to jazz up storebought Mayo

Wild Green Butters of Spring: Ramp, Nettle, Spring Onion

One of the best ways to capture the flavors of ramps, nettles and spring onions is to blend them into good butter that you can eat on all manner of foods and freeze to have on hand. Here are two methods.

Brandless’ Will Deliver Some Seriously Good $3 Bargains, and Ideals, to Your Door

Brandless is a unique e-commerce platform that sells its own food, personal care and household items for $3 each. Intrigued by its premise and high ideals, I placed an order.

Better stuff, fewer dollars. Just what matters.

Online retailer Brandless’ mission is ‘Better stuff, fewer dollars. Just what matters’. Skeptical that generics could

Cure for Bed Heads: Our Stripped Down Version of The Cuban Table’s Sublime El Pecado (Layered Coffee)

The Cuban Table’s recipe for el pecado, which layers three kinds of milk with strong Cuban coffee, is so compelling, we’re going to make it this weekend…

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